Showing posts with label shore power. Show all posts
Showing posts with label shore power. Show all posts

Electrical, Battery Charger, Part I: Analysis and Installation

The Iota 45 Battery Charger
A battery bank is worthless, if you don't have some way to charge it. Some persons use an alternator on a diesel or gas powered inboard engine to charge their banks. Likewise, those with outboard motors replenish their banks (somewhat). These methods of caring for battery banks, however, are only effective, if the mariner is doing a lot of motoring and very little sailing. This is especially the case with those who rely upon a small outboard. For those who prefer to sail more than they do to motor, there are other options. Solar panels and wind generators can help, assuming there is enough sun and enough wind. When there is not, other more dependable methods of charging the battery banks must be employed. This is why most cruising sailboats have a battery charger of some sort, and its also the reason why the battery charger, powered by a genset or a generator, is so often called upon to bring the bank (or banks) up to full charge. When it came to outfitting Oystercatcher, my 1975 Ericson 25, for cruising, I decided that a battery charger was a necessity. In this three-part article, I describe my process of selection for the charger; my approach to installing it; my construction of a protective shield for it; and, finally, I describe my wiring of it.
When I purchased this boat in the fall of 2009, I inherited many problems that had been created by the previous two owners. Aside from the completely illogical mess of the wiring itself, there were some basic problems in terms of the battery bank, or I should say the battery, for there was but one of them, and it was in ill-health at best.
The previous owner had been in possession of the boat since the early 1980s, and for most of this time he had kept her at the dock you see pictured below. There was no permanently installed battery charger on this boat, nor was there any shore power inlet. This guy instead used an automotive-type trickle charger to maintain the battery. This portable charger he powered by means of an AC extension cord that he routed into the boat from the AC receptacle that was on his dock. From this set-up, it was evident that this previous owner never used this boat for anything more than day-sailing. Sure, he could have gone cruising for weeks or months at a time around the Pamlico Sound of North Carolina (where he lived) without the use his battery, and thus without the use of any navigational lights or lights on the interior of the boat, but I seriously doubt that he did.
Even before I got this boat back home to Charleston, South Carolina, I knew that I wanted to use this boat differently. I knew that the boat itself had the interior size and the overall heft for coastal cruising, so I knew that at some point I would need to rewire this boat accordingly. After a lot of research, I decided that I would use two Trojan brand, T-105, 6 volt batteries, wired in series, for the primary bank, i.e., the house bank. I realized that these two batteries together could pack a big punch for a relatively small price. With 225 amp hours, they would provide just the right amount of power for the amp hours that I planned to consume on a daily basis.
I'm not going to get into the details of the daily amp-hour consumption chart that I created for myself (based upon the various DC lights, fans, navigational equipment, and other items that I planned to install), but I will say that, after meticulous planning, I came to the conclusion that I would use somewhere between 75 and 85 amp hours per day. Knowing that it is not advisable to discharge a battery bank below the 50% mark, nor is it advisable to charge a bank above 90%, and mindful of the advice given by Don Casey, This Old Boat, 2nd Edition, that it is smart to multiply your daily amp-hour number by 2.5 to arrive at the correctly-sized battery bank, I did a little basic math, and came to the conclusion that I would need a battery bank that was capable of supplying around 215 amp hours per day. The Trojan T-105s, therefore, with 225 amp hours, were just right. I should point out at this juncture, however, that after a little more research, I came to the conclusion that it would be preferable for me to purchase T-125 batteries. These were the same size as the T-105s, and they did not cost that much more. They did, though, offer more amp hours: 240 instead of 225 to be exact. I liked the idea of having those extra amp hours, so I settled on the T-125s. With the extra amp hours, I would have more power available in an emergency, and I wouldn't be taxing the battery bank so heavily on a daily basis. This would likely result in the battery bank having a longer life.
In terms of the battery charger, I also did a lot of research, and at the end of it, I came to the conclusion that I would use a charger manufactured by Iota Engineering. This company, located in Tucson, Arizona, sells a lot of chargers to the residential market, but it also sells a lot to those who modify their boats for cruising purposes. I knew that it was a trusted brand, but I was unsure what size Iota brand charger I should buy. There were many to choose from, starting with a 20 amp charger and moving up through those of 30, 45, 55, 75, and 90 amps. From all of the research that I had done, I knew that balance was the key. Too much and too little were not good things. The charger had to be large enough to charge the batteries in a reasonable amount of time, but it could not be too big. Otherwise, it would overheat the batteries, causing them to emit excessive amounts of hydrogen gas.
As I researched Iota brand chargers, I concurrently researched charging sources, i.e., generators. What I discovered was that Honda brand generators are wildly popular with cruising sailors. Unlike your standard generator, which sounds not unlike a lawnmower, Honda generators are incredibly quiet. Moreover, they are incredibly fuel efficient. Given these features, it's not surprising that they are also incredibly expensive, when compared to the standard generators. Nevertheless, many sailors consider them worth it, and after enough research and after seeing enough of them in action among friends and neighbors here in Charleston, South Carolina, I decided that a Honda was worth it to me as well. When it wasn't needed on the boat, I could use it around the house, especially in the event of a power outage due to a storm.
In my research, I discovered that there are two main types of Honda generators that cruising sailors use - either the Honda EU1000i or the Honda EU2000i. For the sake of simplicity, we'll simply call them the EU1000 and the EU2000. From everything I read and from people I talked to, I learned that those who use the EU1000, also tend to use either the Iota 20, 30, or 45 amp charger. Likewise, I learned that those who use the EU2000 tend to use either the Iota 55, 75, or 90 amp charger. At the same time, I learned that these Honda generators have breakers that will trip, if they sense that there is too large of a draw upon them. Due to this safety feature, there were some who said that their EU1000 could not handle the Iota 45 charger. It simply drew too many amps. Others, however, said that they had used the EU1000 with the Iota 45 with success. In terms of the EU1000 itself, many cruisers said that given the similarity in size and price of the EU1000 and the EU2000, it was worth it to get the EU2000, since it had twice the capability for almost the same amount of money. Taking these words of advice to heart, I decided that to me it also was worth it to spend a little more and get the EU2000.
Having settled on the Honda EU2000i as the primary charging source for the battery bank, I still needed to settle on which type of Iota brand charger I should get. Initially, based upon my calculations and research, I thought that an Iota 55 would be the right size. It appeared that this charger would bring up the bank of T-125s to a 90% level of charge in 1-2 hours. The more I thought about it, however, the more I believed that the Iota 55 might be just a little too much. Overheating the bank was the last thing I wanted to do, so I settled on the Iota 45, figuring it was not too much, not too little, but just right.

The Iota 45, DLS-45/IQ4 Charger
Next, I needed to figure out the linkage between the Honda and the Iota 45. This Honda generator, by itself, will not power the charger. To make the connection, you need a cord. I did not want to run an extension cord from the generator directly to the charger. That would have been unsafe, and it would have looked pretty damn tacky. Instead, I decided, like many, that I would use a pigtail cord to connect this generator to a shore power inlet.
There was not, of course, a shore power inlet on the boat when I purchased it. Therefore, I had to install my own. The shore power inlet would do double-duty. When docked, I would be able to charge the battery bank through a shore power connection. When at anchor (or even underway), when far removed from the grid, I would use the Honda generator to fool the shore power inlet, as it were, into thinking that it was plugged into the grid.
The shore power inlet would be wired to the AC main breaker, which was located within the AC distribution panel. One of the circuits in the distribution panel would be dedicated to an AC receptacle, which would power the Iota 45 charger. For more on this panel, see my article, "Electrical, AC Distribution Panel."
Having settled on the Trojan, T-125 batteries, the Honda EU2000i generator, the Iota 45 charger, and the shore power inlet, I needed to figure out exactly where I should put all of this stuff. As far as the batteries were concerned, I decided that they needed to be located in the same spot where the original bank was located - low in the lazarette and centered over the bilge. Below you see the Noco brand battery box that would house the Trojan T-125s. It sits upon a fiberglass reinforced plywood shelf that I constructed specifically for this space and this battery box. At the time I took this picture, I had not yet permanently installed these items.
The Honda EU2000i generator I decided to locate on the port side of the cockpit. The exhaust for the generator would point aft. Eventually, I would install a swim platform on the stern, just behind the generator. Atop the swim platform I would strap the gas tank.
Within about two feet of the generator would be the shore power inlet, located on the outboard side of the coaming. I wanted the inlet to be outboard rather than inboard. That way, the shore power cord, when the boat was docked, would not interfere with activities in the cockpit. Also, I figured that when at anchor the pigtail from the generator would stay clear of the cockpit.
In terms of the placement of the AC distribution panel, I opted for the port side of the galley. In the picture below, you see the port side of the main salon and galley as it appeared at the time I purchased the boat. The original battery switch and DC panel were located on the bulkhead beside the stove.
I removed these original parts of the electrical system (and all the other parts for that matter). For more on why I did this, see my article, "Electrical, Original."
When I rewired the boat, I decided to stick with Ericson's original plan, as far as locating the heart of the electrical system on the port side of the boat. This made sense to me for two reasons. First, this side of the galley was the hot and dry side, whereas the other side was the wet one. I thus wanted to keep this electrical equipment on the side that was opposite the sink. Secondly, I wanted the AC distribution panel to be as close to the shore power inlet as possible. If I had located the AC panel on the other side of the galley, the distance between the inlet and the panel would have been greater than 10 feet. According to ABYC (American Boating and Yachting Council) regulations, this meant that I would have been required to install a breaker between the inlet and the panel. This I did not want to do. My rationale for this whole set-up should be much more clear now: generator, port side; shore power inlet, port side; AC distribution panel, port side.
Yes, this all made good sense, but by locating all of these items, i.e., the battery charger, the battery monitor, the DC main breaker, the AC distribution panel, the two bilge switches, and the three DC distribution panels on this port side of the galley, I left not one bit of room for that all-important piece of equipment - the Iota 45 battery charger. So where could I put it? What were my other options?
Well, I considered putting it inside the storage area that I had created behind the backs of the settees. These storage areas existed on both sides of the boat. I easily could have located the Iota 45 in one of these. The only problem, however, was that Iota Engineering specifically said that the charger had to have ventilation while it was operating. They also said that it should not, under any circumstances be within a closed space. This meant that if I located the charger in one of these settee storage spaces, then I would need to remove the backrest or at least lift it up while the charger was charging. This, to me, was completely impractical.
I also considered putting it on the mahogany trim piece, which covered the alcove box. In the picture below you see a break between the Spanish cedar on the left and the mahogany on the right. It was on the Spanish cedar that I mounted the DC distribution panels. For more on this part of the rewiring project, see my article, "Electrical, DC Distribution Panels." Yes, I could have mounted the Iota 45 on that mahogany trim piece, but that would have been bad for two reasons. First of all, it would have prevented anyone from sitting comfortably on the settee in the space directly beneath it. Why? Because the Iota 45 would have prevented anyone from putting his or her head back in a normal sitting position due to the way that it projected into the headroom space from the alcove box area. Secondly, it would have violated my own aesthetic principles. To put it in plain English - it would have looked ugly, and it would have annoyed the hell out of me to see it sitting there screwed to that alcove box, the product of some half-assed afterthought.
I could not put it in the lazarette. The Iota 45 charger is not ignition-protected. This means that if it were located in the lazarette, then it could ignite the hydrogen gas that would be emitted from the batteries during the normal charging process.
Some might say that I could have located the charger on the forward side of the lazarette bulkhead - that side that faces the galley and main salon. In the picture below, we see this forward side of the lazarette bulkhead as it appeared on my boat at the time of purchase. Certainly, I could have located the Iota 45 on either side of the mahogany door, especially since I removed the DC distribution panel you see on the right. I should note that I have actually seen a picture of one Ericson 25 where an owner located what appeared to be a charger in this very spot. The problem I had with locating my charger in this area was that I had cut out a good bit of the fiberglass around the door, so that the access to the lazarette would be much larger.
In its place, I had created a plywood panel, into which I had mounted the original mahogany door. There was no way I could mount the Iota 45 on this panel. I designed the panel so that I could easily remove it when necessary, simply by unscrewing four wing nuts. For more on this project, see my article, "Lazarette, Removable Panel and Door."
Having eliminated all other possibilities, this left me no choice but to consider the starboard side of the galley as the location for the Iota 45 charger. Below we see the starboard side of the galley as it appeared at the time of purchase. Above the sink is the VHF radio. I would later remove this dinosaur and replace it with a new one - one with DSC (Digital Signal Calling) capability. This I would integrate with the GPS, which would be mounted in the same area where you see those antiquated instruments. Given that this space would be occupied with a new VHF and GPS, I knew I could eliminate this area as home for the Iota 45 charger. I also knew I could eliminate the open space just beneath the antiquated instruments. This was where I had planned, all along, to install a binocular rack. Likewise, I could eliminate the space behind the sink. This was where I would install a custom mahogany spice rack.
This left me but one place I could install the Iota 45 - on the bulkhead, next to the ice box, in the same space where that puny spice rack and utensil rack were originally located.
Fortunately, the Iota 45 fit perfectly in that space. In the picture below, you see that I have situated it in that somewhat protected area underneath the cabin trunk protrusion. The duct tape on the protrusion says, "Paper Towels." I toyed briefly with the idea of putting the paper towel holder in this spot (instead of a binocular rack), but quickly abandoned it when I saw how far out into the galley a full roll of paper towels would protrude.
Yes, this spot for the Iota 45 was the best one possible. It was close to the battery bank, it was relatively protected, and despite its somewhat secluded location, it would still be well ventilated. Nevertheless, I was concerned about its proximity to the sink. The icebox I was not worried about, because I never planned to use this as an icebox in the first place. Instead, I intended it to be a pantry of sorts for the storage of dry foods. The sink, though could be a problem. Water, splashing from the sink, could damage the charger. Things could be much worse if a human hand happened to get in the middle of that combination. The more I thought about it, the more I wanted to devise some means of protecting the charger from the sink and those who might use it.
I was pleased that I had settled on the Iota 45 charger, and I was pleased that I had settled on a location for it. The task before me now was to create a shield of some sort. This shield, in keeping with the principles I had established for myself from the start of this refitting, had to be both functional and pleasing to the eye. How I created a shield that satisfied these criteria is the subject of part two of this three-part article.

This ends this posting on how I selected and installed the Iota 45 charger in Oystercatcher, my Ericson 25.

Electrical, AC Distribution Panel, Part I: Analysis and Installation

The AC distribution panel within its mahogany trim piece
Every cruising sailboat, except those whose owners are minimalists to the extreme, has a battery bank. It's possible to charge this bank by means of a wind generator or solar panels. These means of generating power, however, are not only expensive to implement, but also often inefficient, unpredictable, and in the case of the wind generator, obnoxious. For the most part, if you wish to charge the battery bank in a consistent, reliable, and timely fashion you must have an alternator or a generator, or both. Alternators, typically found on diesel engines, will generate sufficient power to charge a battery bank, if properly regulated, and if the engine is run for a sufficient amount of time each day. For those who do not have diesel engines, but instead have outboards, these motors also have alternators that can supply power to a battery bank. Typically, though, they do not supply enough power, unless they are used throughout the day. This means that for those who usually sail a lot and motor just a little, a generator is a necessary piece of equipment for charging a battery bank. The generator is powered either by diesel or by gasoline, usually the latter. The generator, powered by one of these fuels, produces AC (Alternating Current). This, in turn, powers the battery charger, which then charges the bank. Normally, the generator is not connected directly to the charger. Instead, the AC power, which the generator produces, is routed to the AC main breaker. From there it is routed to an AC distribution panel, which contains breakers for the individual circuits. One of these individual circuits is dedicated to the battery charger.
Obviously, an AC distribution panel is an important component of the electrical system on any cruising sailboat, whether that boat be big or small. Oystercatcher, my Ericson 25 would definitely fall into the latter category. On account of its status as a trailerable pocket cruiser, space issues (and by this I mean living-space and storage-space issues) are paramount on a boat such as the Ericson 25. In the first part of this two-part article I describe my rationale for the place in which I chose to install the AC distribution panel and the methods I used to install it. As always, my guiding principle for this project was that this installation be both functional and aesthetically pleasing.
The panels for the original electrical system on the boat that I purchased were located on the port side of the vessel. One panel was adjacent to the lazarette access door. The other was adjacent to the stove. Both of the panels were for the distribution of DC power. There was no AC panel. So how did the previous owner charge the battery that powered the DC electrical system? He used a standard trickle charger - you know, the kind that you commonly find in an automotive store. He had his own private dock, and at the end of his dock there was an AC receptacle. From this receptacle he ran an extension cord into the boat where his trickle charger sat. He only used the boat for day sailing, so he never had to worry about maintaining the battery for more than a short period of time.
The DC panel adjacent to the lazarette access door was not original to the boat. Either the previous owner or the first owner (there were only two owners before me) had installed it. This was not really a good location for an electrical panel. Sure, it was close to the battery (which was just behind that small access door), but it was a little too close. Flooded lead batteries produce gas when they are being charged. This gas in high enough concentrations can explode if ignited. Therefore, any electrical equipment in the lazarette must be ignition protected. Was this DC panel ignition protected? No. Are DC panels typically ignition protected? No.
The DC panel adjacent to the stove was original. Having seen the Ericson 25 manual and many pictures of many other Ericson 25s, I can say that this was the standard, factory-installed location for the DC panel on this boat. Why did Ericson choose this location and not another? I would say, because it was close to the battery, without being too close. Why on this side of the galley and not on the other? My guess would be that Ericson judged this side to be the safer side. Sure this one would be near the stove.
The other one, however, would be near the icebox and sink. Electrical equipment and water, of course, don't go well together, so the choice was pretty obvious.
According to the original Ericson 25 manual, an AC shore power inlet was an option at the time of purchase. My Ericson 25, at the time of purchase, did not have one.
Installation on Oystercatcher of a shore power inlet, the subject of a separate article
Also, according to the options list (not here pictured), a battery charger was an option. Below is a page from the original manual where shore power is discussed. If you're having trouble reading the words below, simply click on them.
Nowhere in this section from the manual is anything said about an AC distribution panel, and in the Ericson 25 shop manual there are no instructions for the installation of such a panel. I should mention also that there are no instructions for the installation of a shore power inlet or a charger. In terms of the AC distribution panel, one can only assume, therefore, that when someone opted for a shore power inlet and charger at the time of purchase, these electrical components were installed without an AC distribution panel as an intermediary. The manual does indeed mention an AC breaker. Obviously, then, the AC power from the shore power inlet passed through a breaker and from there to the charger. From the charger, the power passed directly to the battery without first passing through a distribution panel.
Why, then, would anyone bother to install an AC distribution panel, if the primary purpose of the shore power inlet is to power a charger that will, in turn, charge the battery bank? Well, there are several reasons.
First, it might be nice to have an AC receptacle for power tools or household appliances (such as a hot plate) when AC power is available.
An AC receptacle with boxes and stainless steel face plates
Secondly, it might be nice to have an air conditioner on board, especially if you live in a climate that is extremely hot and humid, such as you find in the southeastern part of the United States and the whole of the Caribbean. To power a small window-unit style air conditioner (such as fits in the box below), you must have an AC receptacle. This AC receptacle could also be used to power an electric heater in the cold months.
Finally, if you happen to have a battery charger that is not hard-wired to the battery bank, but instead requires a standard AC receptacle, then you'll want to have an AC distribution panel.
The Iota 45 charger on Oystercatcher
If you choose to install an AC distribution panel, as I did on my boat, then you next must decide where to install it. Is there enough room for it beside the original DC panel on the Ericson 25? Not really. Is there enough room for it somewhere else in the galley? Not really. The back of the Blue Sea Systems AC panel, which I purchased, projects some four inches from the panel itself. Moreover, to be in compliance with ABYC (American Boating and Yachting Council) regulations, the back of this panel must be covered by a protective box. The cockpit locker, which sits behind the bulkhead (on which the DC panel is located), is the only space that will accommodate this the Blue Sea Systems AC panel and the protective box. This means that if you wish to install an AC panel such as this one on the dry side of the galley (as opposed to the wet side by the icebox and sink), then there really is no other place to put it than in the space that is occupied by the original DC panel. This means that the DC panel or panels must go somewhere else. But where?
My solution was to put the DC panels in the alcove box behind the stove. In the picture below, you see the alcove box just above the mahogany spice rack. Here, you see just an open hole. Soon afterwards, a panel of Spanish cedar would cover this hole. In this Spanish cedar would be mounted the new DC panels. For more on this part of project, see my article, "Electrical, DC Distribution Panels."
Having settled on putting the AC panel in the space formerly occupied by the original DC panel, I next had to decide exactly where to put it, since there were other parts of this electrical system that I had to take into consideration. There were two bilge pump switches, a DC breaker, a battery monitor, a battery switch, and an AC receptacle. To make sure that I could make all of this fit into this tight space, I made cardboard mockups. This article, of course, is focused on the AC distribution panel. In terms of the other parts of the electrical system that I mentioned above, see my separate articles on each of those separate parts.
Wanting the appearance of this AC distribution panel tie in with the appearance of everything else on this boat, I decided to mount the AC panel in a piece of mahogany trim. The rest of the boat was originally trimmed with mahogany, so this would make the AC panel look as if it had been there from the start. I was fortunate to have a 1/8 inch piece of solid mahogany that was six inches wide and about six feet long. This piece (and several other pieces of the same size) I had purchased at Southern Lumber here in Charleston, South Carolina. This was where I had purchased other pieces of sapele mahogany for this refitting. Normally, the thinnest mahogany that is available is rough-sawn 4/4 inch, i.e., 1 inch. This means that if you want anything thinner, you must plane it down to the appropriate thickness. Occasionally, at this lumber yard there are scraps of mahogany that are available as left-overs from the millwork division of the yard. One day when I stopped by the yard, these thin pieces just happened to be available. Figuring that I could one day use them as trim of some sort, I bought them. Now that day had come.
Once I had cut a piece of the 1/8 inch mahogany to the appropriate size, I used the template provided by Blue Sea Systems to mark the mahogany with lines for the cut-out.
I really had to take it slow when cutting the material. One careless move and I would have snapped the mahogany from the vibrations of the saw or the weight of it pressing down on an unsupported end.
The finished trim-piece.
Next I dry-fitted the panel into the trim-piece. By the way, this is the Blue Sea Systems PN 8043. I bought this particular panel because it had everything I needed in one panel: an AC voltmeter, an AC breaker, and three separate circuits.
Fortunately, I took my time with the planning for the rewiring of the boat and did not make any hasty decisions in terms of the mounting of any of the switches or panels. If I had, I probably would have centered the new AC panel on the existing DC panel hole. This would have prevented me from constructing the spice rack which you see pictured below. Since I had to work around the spice rack, I had to offset the AC panel with regard to the existing hole.
Before I did any cutting, I made sure to dry-fit all the mahogany trim pieces to make sure that my calculations based on the cardboard mock-ups had been correct.
Satisfied with the dry-fit, I moved forward with my plans to expand the existing hole to make room for the AC panel. Before I could do this, I needed to drill the mounting holes in the trim piece.

Back in the boat, I screwed the trim piece into place so that I could mark the area that needed to be cut.
I also got together the tools that I would need for this job - the Makita jig saw and the Dremel with the fiberglass cutting bit.
With everything cleared out of the way, it was time to get to work. As always, despite the fact that I had measured and re-measured, I approached this job with some trepidation. There's no turning back once the cutting begins.
After drilling a pilot hole, I began to cut the fiberglass with the jig saw. Note the shape sketched in pencil to the right of the hole. That was where I had originally intended to put one of the bilge switches. That's what I meant above when I talked about taking my time and thinking all of this through. If I had mounted the bilge pump switch in that spot, I would not have been able to situate the spice rack in the space where it is now located.
The cut-out got bigger . . .
and bigger, until I could no longer cut what I needed to cut with the jig saw.
At this point, I had no choice but to break out the drill.
The Dremel, with the fiberglass cutting bit, brought me close to finishing the job.
The keyhole saw closed the deal.

One last hit with the Dremel.
Presto. This job, or at least this part of the job, was done. Looks sort of lonely and not very attractive sitting there by itself, right? After this AC panel got a few neighbors, who were also trimmed in mahogany, it would not look so bad.
This ends this posting on my installation of the AC distribution panel in Oystercatcher, my Ericson 25.