Showing posts with label rudder. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rudder. Show all posts

Motor and Motor Bracket, Part 9, Installation of Motor Mount Pad and Motor

The motor mount pad and motor fully installed
Having installed the transom plate and backing plates, and having installed the motor bracket to these plates, it was now time for me to install the custom motor mount pad and the motor itself. The steps I took to accomplish this on Oystercatcher, my Ericson 25, are the subject of this posting.
Unlike the many other postings in this multi-part article, this one does not have has many step-by-step pictures. We will look instead at some pictures of the completed project, at least this first part of it. Below, we see the Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust motor mounted on the custom motor mount pad (painted white).
A beefy buddy of mine who lives nearby assisted me with the steps it took to get to this point. First, we bolted the custom motor mount pad into place. Then we picked up the motor and set it in place. We noticed right away that the clamps for the motor appeared as if they would obstruct the bolts that we planned to install - the bolts that would secure the motor to the pad. Therefore, we picked the motor back up off of the pad and set it back down onto the wooden motor rack (that I had wheeled-up next to the boat with a hand truck). Then, we grabbed a 1/2 inch piece of scrap Starboard. This HDPE black plastic board was just what we needed to raise the motor up high enough to give us some room for the bolts. If you look closely, you can see the piece of Starboard on top of the motor mount pad.
The bolt holes for the mounting of the motor to the pad did not pre-exist. We drilled them only after we had gotten the Starboard and the motor in place. At issue were the pre-existing holes in the Yamaha rack itself. These holes had to serve as a guide for the drilling of the holes through the pad. In other words, the motor had to be in place on the pad for us to carry out this drilling. If we had pre-drilled the holes in the pad, we would have had a very difficult time lining them up with the pre-existing holes in the Yamaha rack.
I was concerned that our free-handed drilling would result in holes that were not perfectly perpendicular to the pad. My buddy, however, who's quite the craftsman and quite the mariner, assured me that marking the pad and then taking the pad to his drill press was unnecessary. He was right.
He also assured me that the starboard would not present any problems with regard to the security of the motor on the motor mount pad.
He also helped me, at this time, install the rudder. I discuss the repair and reinstallation of this rudder in a series of separate postings.
With the motor finally in place, I was pleased to see that I would definitely be able to drop the prop of the motor deep into the water, if I so wished. In the picture below, as in the previous six, you see the motor bracket in its fully-deployed state. Pay no attention to the tilt of the motor. Once I had this motor connected to the battery bank, I would tilt it into a more vertical position so that the prop would be horizontal with regard to its direction of thrust.
With the first major task out of the way, I could now focus on the joining of the positive and negative wires of the motor to the battery bank. I began by drilling a hole into the side of the cockpit locker on the port side. As you see in the picture below, I used a Lennox brand hole saw to do this. This task would have been impossible if I had not earlier installed the nearby circular hatch. This area of the port side cockpit locker is very difficult to access. I found it impossible to join the three bilge pump hoses to the through-hulls in the transom without installing this circular hatch.
In this hole I installed a nylon through-hull, one that the previous owner used to have in the starboard cockpit locker. He used this through-hull for routing the fuel line from his motor to the fuel tank that he (foolishly) stored in the cockpit locker. Yes, it was a cheap, nylon through-hull, but it didn't matter, since it wouldn't be situated below the waterline. Nevertheless, I used butyl tape to seal this fitting in the hole. This would prevent water from leaking around the edges of the fitting. I sawed off most of the through-hull to make it easier to route the wires at a right angle after they entered the cockpit locker.
After I routed the wires into the through-hull, I shoved butyl tape into the spaces around the wires. I didn't want a single drop of water to enter this cockpit locker, especially since much of my main AC and DC circuit was in this locker.
The terminals that came with these wires, in my opinion, were not up to snuff. They were poorly crimped, and they were not sealed with heat-shrink tubing. Therefore, I cut off these terminals and installed my own.
I address my work on this starting circuit much more thoroughly in my series of articles on the electrical system that I installed in my complete rewiring of the boat.
I made sure to keep plenty of slack in these wires from the motor. I also made sure to put in a drip loop so that the water would have less of a propensity to creep toward the through-hull.
Here's one shot of the cockpit locker with part of the starting circuit. In the foreground the positive (red) wire from the motor terminates at an ANL fuse block. On the other side of the fuse block a cable leads aft and ultimately downward to that portion of the main circuit on the bulkhead in the lazarette.
With the starting wires now joined to the battery bank I could now use the power tilt/trim, and I could crank the motor whenever I needed to run fresh gas through it.
For a long time - before I ever installed the motor on the bracket - I used to have to perform this monthly cranking ritual by temporarily joining the motor's wires to one of the starting batteries in one of my vehicles. It was sort of a pain. I'd use a hand truck to roll the motor (on a wooden motor rack) up close the the vehicle. Then I'd use jumper cables to make the connection. Water would puddle up in the yard and make a lot of mud.
In this new set-up, the water puddled up behind the boat and made a lot of mud, but I didn't have to worry about this for very long. This was the one and only time I had to crank the motor up like this. Shortly afterward I launched the boat, a joyous moment after a lengthy refitting.

One last thing I did before this launch was to fabricate a modified tiller for the motor. I made it out of 1/2 inch Starboard. The real Yamaha tiller worked well in some positions in the transom cutout, but not in others. I wanted to have a short tiller that would give me full range of movement when necessary.
There were two holes in a metal bar on the forward side of the motor. I believe that these served as anchor points for the steering system for Yamaha owners who opted for steering cables in lieu of a tiller. At any rate, I used these holes to anchor my modified tiller.
You can see clearly in the picture below that the modified tiller is one that provides full range of movement. The Yamaha tiller, on the other hand, due to its port side orientation does not allow for port side movement within the cutout in the Ericson 25 transom.
With the Yamaha tiller in the vertical position, the modified tiller provides full range of movement. I can say now that after the launch, and after my repeated use of the motor for leaving the dock, returning to the dock, and simply motoring in general, I almost always keep the Yamaha tiller in the vertical position. That way, it's always out of the way and does not present any restrictions in terms of the range of movement of the motor. It took a while, but I have become quite accustomed to operating the throttle (black handle at the end of the tiller) and the gear shifter (gray lever in the middle of the tiller) with the tiller in the vertical position. I should add that I have never had any problems in terms of the prop of the motor interfering with the boat's rudder. The Garelick heavy duty bracket was just what I needed for this boat. Additionally, I should say that I almost always operate the motor with the bracket in the lowest position. I can operate the motor with the bracket in the mid-level position, but I prefer to have it deeper to prevent hobby-horsing in the tides, winds, and currents where I live. The mid-level position would probably work well on the relatively calm waters of a modestly sized lake.

All in all, I'm glad that I spent the time and the money to make all these modifications to this boat. She's now much more dependable than she was when I bought her. I never have to worry about muscling upstream through an outgoing five knot tide in Charleston Harbor. This motor in this set-up has what it takes to get me where I want to go.
This ends this article on the many steps I took in the repowering of Oystercatcher, my Ericson 25.

Motor and Motor Bracket, Part 1, Analysis, Part I

The original Johnson Sailmaster 7.5 horsepower motor
A reliable means of auxiliary propulsion on a cruising sailboat is, by most people's reckoning, a necessity. Many an Ericson 25 on the market has an auxiliary means of propulsion almost as old as the boat, and the motor on Oystercatcher, my Ericson 25, was no exception. The motor was manufactured in 1983. The boat was manufactured in 1975. The year I purchased Oystercatcher was 2009. At age 34, Oystercatcher was now showing her age. Likewise, her motor, at age 26, was past her prime. Nevertheless, I purchased them both and sought to do what I could to get them back home safely from the Pamlico Sound region of North Carolina to my home in Charleston, South Carolina in October of that year.
I first visited Oystercatcher in August of 2009.
At that time I simply took a look at her while looking at other boats for sale in the area.
The owner had not put much effort into taking care of the boat or getting her ready for my visit.
The motor was not attractive in appearance, and some of the hardware used to secure it to the transom was shabby and worn.
The owner knew enough to keep the lower unit of the motor out of the water, so there was no fouling in this area.
One thing that seemed awkward with the set-up was that the motor and the rudder appeared to obstruct each other's movement.
The motor had two wires that were capped with orange wire nuts. These were supposed to be wired to the battery so as to provide a charge whenever the motor was in operation. Like so many other things on this boat, this had been long neglected.
Equally neglected was the burglar bar that was meant to prevent a thief from unscrewing the motor from the transom. When I later got the boat back home to Charleston I was able to pull this free with one hand. That's how rusted it was. Note as well the aged fuel line. This was yet another sign of neglect.
At some point during this first visit, I asked the owner to lower the motor into the water and crank it up, just to show me that it worked. It was to his credit that he was able to start it without any problems.
A few weeks later, in September of 2009, I returned to this boat to take a more serious look at it.
By now, the owner had doctored the boat a bit so as to give it a more sellable appearance.
I had hired a local surveyor. He and I and the owner took the boat out for a spin to prove, among other things, that the motor was capable of pushing the boat through the water. It was a very calm day, with little wind and few currents. Under those conditions, the motor performed well.
As a part of his effort to spruce up the boat for sale, the owner had spray painted the burglar bar black. Someone forgot to tell him that spray paint doesn't fill gaping holes in rusty iron bars. At least the owner had replaced the pitiful original fuel line with a new one.
A big problem, however, was his decision, long before this time, to store the gas tank in the cockpit locker. This had caused gas fumes to permeate not only the cockpit locker, but also the lazarette, and the cabin of the boat itself. The surveyor said to me that he didn't know how this guy had not blow himself up years before this time.
Despite the shortcomings of the boat and the motor, I purchased them both. In October 2009 I made a third trip to the boat, this time to bring her home. After parking the truck and trailer at the haulout point in Oriental, North Carolina, my friend and I had someone take us to the former owner's personal dock near his home in a remote area of the Pamlico Sound region. The former owner was kind enough to allow us to spend the night at his dock before leaving with the boat the next morning.
We motored away from the dock, and soon afterwards set sail. It was a good thing we did, because if we had tried to motor all the way to Oriental, we never would have made it. The two-stroke Johnson Sailmaster 7.5 horse motor was just too much of a gas hog.
The weather was quite blustery, which made for some spectacular sailing, all the way up to the point where Oriental came into view on the horizon. All was going well until we tried to tack the boat across the wind to make our way toward Oriental. The centerboard was stuck in its trunk. We knew this in advance. What we did not know, however, was that this would prevent us from tacking. We tried and we tried to no avail. Finally, we decided to drop the sails and crank the motor. This was when things went from bad to worse.
The antiquated furling line in the antiquated furler got fouled. This happened when the headsail was only about halfway furled. The remaining part of the sail started whipping itself around, every way you can imagine. My friend tried to get it under control with some sail ties, but despite his strength he could not. This was when I quickly lashed the tiller in place and ran forward to help him. With the headsail now under better control and with the mainsail struck, I cranked the Johnson Sailmaster 7.5. Fortunately, it started right up. By this point we were nearing a lee shore, and it was my expectation that this motor would be our saving grace. I gave it all she had, and for some time I thought that the motor would not be able to overcome the wind. Without the centerboard, the boat wanted to go broadside to the wind. Eventually, after gybing several times in an effort to swing the bow up into the wind, we started to have some success. Now, however, on this cold and cloudy October day it was getting close to dark. Luckily, we were able to keep the bow into the wind and make it into Oriental before nightfall. The motor got us there, but it wasn't easy, even with the bow pointed into the wind.
With the assistance of some nearby wine-drinking cruisers in a Fantasia 37, we pulled the boat alongside a fuel dock at a marina that had already closed its doors for the evening. As far as we could tell, the haulout slip, which was located down a nearby narrow fairway, was already occupied by another boat. This fuel dock was the best we could do for the night, and we were certainly glad to be there. As we sipped on cold ones in the main salon that evening while the cold wind blew outside, my friend and I reflected on the day's events. One conclusion we reached, among others, was that this Johnson Sailmaster 7.5 motor was sufficient in placid conditions, but inadequate in blustery ones. I would later discover a review in an online version of Boating magazine from January 1982. The reviewer spoke as follows: "The new 7.5 and 4 hp auxiliaries are very portable - 65 pounds and 35 pounds respectively - yet are designed to deliver the power to move sailboats and other displacement hulls through tricky currents or maneuver them into tight spots. Johnson engineers say the 7.5 Sail Master is ideal for vessels 17' to 25', while the 4 hp was developed for the 13' to 16' range." This review made it clear that the Ericson 25, at 25 feet, was just barely within the operating range for the 7.5 Sailmaster.  Keep in mind, moreover, that the Ericson 25 is much heavier than your average 25 foot sailboat. This helps to explain why this motor was inadequate when the going got tough.
My friend and I on that cold October night also concluded that the motor and the rudder were awkwardly placed. You had to hold the tiller of the rudder in one hand and the tiller of the motor in another, and you had to move the two in unison. Otherwise, the prop would damage the rudder.
After I had trailered the boat back home to Charleston I experimented with different configurations for the primary gas tank and the reserve. I knew I didn't want to use the cockpit locker, as had the previous owner.
I also knew, however, that I did not want to store these gas tanks in the cockpit. They really crowded the cockpit, especially in terms of the legroom of this space.
With all of these things in mind, I started to look around the internet to see what other Ericson 25 owners used on their boats in the way of motors and how they had dealt with these rudder and gas tank issues. I found one owner who used what appeared to be an 8 horse Mercury. I also found that this person had reinforced his transom with an aluminum plate. That, I thought, was a good idea.
This same owner used a tiller pilot when sailing offshore in the lakes of Wisconsin and the Great Lakes. With the lower unit of the motor tilted up out of the water, the rudder appeared to have a free swing port to starboard. When this owner motored, however, he likely had to hold the motor and rudder tillers in two separate hands so as to avoid collisions.
This owner, like the one from Wisconsin, mounted his motor in the transom cutout. This was obviously the space that Ericson had intended owners to use for their motors.
In terms of the boat below, it was probably impossible for the owner to use the tiller of his motor in any effective way. I can't imagine how he did not damage his rudder whenever he maneuvered in and out of this boat slip.
If I remember correctly, this Ericson 25 owner from San Diego extended the shaft of his motor by modifying the lower unit. If the prop is not well below the surface of the water it can easily cavitate, especially when the boat is rocking in waves.
As I looked around, I found that at least one Ericson 25 owner had updated his auxiliary power system by installing a Honda outboard, what appeared to be a Honda 9.9 Power Thrust.
I also found some who had updated their boats by adding a Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust. These Hondas and Yamahas were next generation technology - four-stroke motors that burned much less fuel and delivered much more thrust.
The owner of this boat put a Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust in the transom cutout and a swim ladder on the other side of the transom. This was a set-up that I found attractive.
It seemed, however, that he still had not solved the problem of the interference between the prop and the rudder.
This owner, like the one of the boat above, had mounted a Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust in the transom cutout and a swim ladder on the other side of the transom. I considered a swim ladder essential, not so much for swimming, but for getting someone back in the boat in the event of a Man Overboard incident.
The owner of this boat in North Carolina had a setup identical to the other two.
Likewise, it appeared he had not solved the prop and rudder interference problem.
I had read in various places about other owners of other types of sailboats having similar prop and rudder interference issues. In my research, I found this picture of one person's solution. I thought this was clever, but I never traveled this path in my journey toward my own solution.
In my research I also found numerous Ericson 25 owners who had opted not to use the transom cutout, but instead had chosen to use a motor bracket on the opposite side of the transom. This seemed to me to solve one problem - that of the prop and rudder interference. By swinging the motor out on the motor bracket, it seemed these owners could get the prop out there beyond the end of the rudder.
Some of these owners, such as the owner of the boat pictured below, had installed swim ladders in front of the transom cutout. I saw, just as they had seen, that this would make it much easier to climb up into the boat.
Nevertheless, it seemed to me that the mounting of the motor on a motor bracket on the port side of the transom created new problems, the most significant of which was access to the motor's tiller and throttle.
"How awkward it must be to lean out over the transom while trying to look forward and maneuver the boat into a slip." That's what I thought whenever I contemplated such a set-up.
I had seen a man in Charleston harbor with such a set-up on his boat - not an Ericson 25 - and he appeared to be in an uncomfortable and awkward position. This together with these pictures convinced me that this setup is one that I would avoid.
You'll notice that the tiller on this motor does not have full range of motion. This means that with this setup not only do you have to lean out over the transom, but also you have poor steerage.
Admittedly, the swim ladder access was excellent, but it was not worth the hassle of having the motor on the port side.
Now back to the starboard side setup. In one of the pictures I found, I saw that an owner had reinforced the transom on the cockpit side. I thought this was a good idea.
Out of all the pictures I found, the one below was the one the most appealed to me. This owner had put a swim ladder on the port side, and he had installed a motor bracket on the starboard side. This allowed him to get the prop out there beyond the rudder, and it also, as it appeared, allowed him easier access to the tiller and throttle of the motor. In short, this setup appeared to solve many of the problems I was attempting to solve, and I decided that I would move forward with something similar. First, though, I needed to get a new motor - the right motor for this heavy displacement boat.
This ends this posting on my analysis of the motor and motor bracket for Ericson 25s, specifically for my Ericson 25, Oystercatcher.